The first consideration having purchased a rug is where is it going to be displayed. Is it going to be subject to strong sunlight, is it going to be walked over incessantly, is it to be used a wall hanging, or draped across a table, are chairs going to be dragged across it and so on. All of these are important factors which must be taken into account. Too much sunlight over any length of time will inevitably fade chemical and natural dyes with irretrievable results. Fading as a result of sunlight is a gradual process and it is usually too late to do anything about it by the time one becomes aware of what has happened.

Area rugs should be a lifetime investment, there should be no reason to make them end up like this!

If the wear and tear of human feet can have a detrimental effect on a rug it does not take much imagination to realise what effect heavy furniture or dining room chairs frequently being pushed in and out can have. The solution to this widespread problem is to place the legs of furniture, particularly those with metal castors, on small glass discs thus protecting the pile. A good underlay is a prerequisite: not only does it reduce wear by taking up the unevenness of the floor, it also stops any movement on bare floors. Very few underlays on the market are effective. The most effective are made in Germany by Fulde Stop. One is thin and slightly adhesive on both sides and is best suited to lightweight rugs, holding them on all types of flooring, it is also suitable for fitted rugs. The other is thicker and relies on the weight of the rug to stay in place. Fulde Stop is available from the better rug shops.

Another commonly encountered problem is the curling of selvedges and corners. This is caused by extra tension being placed on the outer warps during the weaving and can be rectified by sewing cotton or jute webbing under the selvedges. A more long-term solution is to use a competent restorer to sew the edges flat by inserting extra weft threads which straighten out the curling edges.

If the rug is question is too fragile or rare to be used as a floor covering, a good way of displaying it is to treat it as a picture and hang it on the wall. For hanging stronger rugs velcro-mesh is advisable. Two-inch (five centimeter) wide velcro can take the weight of a large and heavy rug. It is wise to ensure that the rug is hanging with the warp vertical and the pile laying downwards, the warp taking the weight. The velcro is tacked onto a flat length of wood which is fixed to the wall.

The sixteenth- and seventeenth-century fashion for rugs being draped over tables deserves to be more widely employed. Visually it is extremely effective and is an excellent way of using rug in slightly ropey condition that might not stand up to heavy foot traffic. Silk rugs not robust enough to hang by their own weight should be mounted on a frame like a painting.

Cleaning

Needless to say there are all sorts of myths about how rugs should be cleaned. If in any doubt it is always worth asking a reputable dealer for advice, no matter how trivial your question may seem. All dealers can offer a specialist cleaning service, and will also advice on the cost of the work before proceeding. Dry-cleaning is detrimental to wool rugs as the chemicals remove too much of the natural oil from the fibres. It is best to wash them in relatively cool softened or deionised water with a mild liquid soap and leave them to dry of their own accord. On the other hand it is always advisable to have silk rugs dry-cleaned. But this should only be undertaken with the advice of an expert rug cleaner.

It is safe to vacuum rugs, as long as one is not to rough. Fragile rugs should be vacuumed with a small dustette Hoover with a nylon net fixed over the opening. Beware of vacuums with beaters as they are potentially damaging. If a rug is sent to a specialist cleaner, he will beat it to dislodge dirt and dust before embarking on the cleaning. This is done by slowly turning the rug over and over in a huge drum.

Inevitably in a family house there is bound to be the off accident involving beverages or animal pets. Put a thick white towel under the wet are and dose it with water, having first ensured that the dyes are fast. This is done by dabbing each area of color one by one with a piece of cotton wool. If any color transfers on to the cotton wool the colors will run: seek expert advice. If the colors are fast the rug should then be left to dry in its own good time, lifted off the floor so that air can pass beneath it.

Area Rug care should not be a hard task, repairing it early will save you from a big job later on.

Repairs

Repairs are a highly emotive area. To many people a worn rug couple with a bit of fading has the appeal of faded grandeur. But if the life of a damaged rug is to be extended, repairs are necessary, taking into account the value of the rug in question. Obviously there are occasions when a rug is too far gone to warrant an extensive outlay on repairs. Then there is the eternal debate between ‘restoration’ and ‘conservation’. ‘Restoration’ will involve re-weaving and re-knotting; conservation is more a question of mounting the rug onto a backing if it is particularly fragile, thus preventing the damage from getting worse. There are a handful of specialist firms that can be trusted.

Storage

Never store a rug that is damp or dirty. It may seem sensible to roll a knotted rug with the pile inside, but it is potentially damaging to the foundation weave and furthermore is liable to damage the pile. Plastic of polythene should never be used to wrap a rug in because they can trap moisture. To prepare a rug for storage it should be wrapped in acid-free tissue paper on both sides before being rolled in a white cotton or lined cloth (cotton and linen are distasteful to moths and most insects). A rug should be stored in a dry place with plenty of moth repellant such as strong herbs like cedarwood and should be inspected every three months or so. Do not trust removal companies to store rugs.